From Kolhapur to Milan: The Controversy Behind Prada's Footwear and Cultural Heritage

Italian luxury brand Prada has found itself at the center of a cultural appropriation controversy following the launch of its new footwear line at Milan Fashion Week. The sandals featured an open-toe braided design strikingly similar to traditional Kolhapuri sandals, a cherished artisan product from the Indian states of Maharashtra and Karnataka. Initially marketed without mention of its Indian origins, Prada faced backlash for appropriating a design deeply rooted in Indian heritage.

Responding to the criticism, Prada stated that they now recognize the inspiration drawn from traditional Indian footwear. A spokesperson mentioned the brand’s commitment to celebrating craftsmanship and traditions, highlighting ongoing communication with the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce about the issue. This trade body had previously expressed concerns about the sandals’ commercialization without crediting the local artisans.

Lorenzo Bertelli, Prada’s head of Corporate Social Responsibility, noted that the sandals were still in the early design phase and emphasized the brand’s willingness to engage in meaningful dialogue with Indian artisans to discuss their contributions and rights.

Kolhapuri sandals, recognized for their durability and comfort in hot climates, have been made for centuries and received Geographical Indication (GI) status in 2019, marking their authenticity and unique cultural significance. The backlash from artisans in Kolhapur has been poignant, with many expressing that the sandals should rightfully acknowledge their origins and the labor of local craftspeople. Artisan Prabha Satpute lamented the lack of credit for their hard work, while industrialist Harsh Goenka pointed out the vast disparity between the pricing of these locally made sandals, which cost a few hundred rupees, and Prada’s high-end pricing ranging from £600 to £1,000 in the UK.

Despite the controversy, there is a flicker of pride among some artisans, with businessman Dileep More stating appreciation for global recognition of their work, indicating that the situation has sparked a complex mix of feelings within the community. This incident adds to a growing list of criticisms faced by global brands accused of exploiting Indian heritage without proper acknowledgment.